Memories of ‘lovely’ Malta

In 1961 I paid my first visit to Malta on HMS Blake. It was a while before I got up on deck and into the glaring sun and excessive heat. We were buoyed for’d and aft. To our port was Bailey’s dockyard while to starboard was Valletta, with a large poster proclaiming “Viva Dom Mintoff” – whoever he was. All round the ship were little boats, which the old salts said were “dysos” (dgħajsa). These were offering all sorts of things for sale and to “take you ashore Jack”. Most of them seemed to belong to someone called Spiro. There were other craft delivering supplies and taking away rubbish.

On shore I could see what appeared to be a pile of scaffolding next to a wall. I had a few Maltese pounds in my pocket and was rearing to go. So at 1 p.m., dressed in my whites, I was ready to go ashore. The choice was to wait for the Liberty Boat or pay a few bob to use a dgħajsa. No contest. After all what’s a few bob among friends? We had Maltese cooks and stewards on the ship so we knew that the Maltese were friendly and Spiro’s boat crew was the same.

Once ashore, although there were karozzin – horse and cart to me – it was suggested we use the lift. Remember the scaffolding? As we entered the lift we were apprehensive as it appeared to be made of loose Meccano. We paid our shilling and after what seemed an age the lift made the effort and left terra firma to ascend very slowly and not very quietly. The nervous titters of us young sailors were drowned out by the laughter of the old salts who thought it fun to shake the lift about. I guess prayer does work because we eventually got to the top albeit shaking. The Upper Barrakka gardens looked quite nice but we needed a drink. Down South Street towards Kingsway we could then go left towards the bus terminus or right towards town and the bars. We chose right – naturally.

Eventually, we ended up at the (infamous) Gut. There were bars everywhere on this very narrow street, with names like Cairo Bar, Egyptian Queen, Cotton Club, Carmen’s and many more. “Drink the Hopleaf” we were advised. “Or if you get Marsovin, it’s better to have it with 7Up.” We tried to do everything that day but all we managed to do was to end up... not very sober. And I don’t think we were ripped off by anyone. Even in Ben Marl’s Restaurant.

Eventually I returned to Malta in 2002. My wife and I arrived on an Air Malta flight from Liverpool. It was a pleasant flight and the staff was great. We arrived in the early hours and were quickly through the airport and onto the bus to St Julians. We dozed off eventually, only to be wakened early by the noise of construction. After breakfast, we were out and about, had a few drinks, then sat on seats overlooking Manoel Island fending off timeshare touts. It was during the World Cup so there was lots of excitement as cars tooted around the streets with support for Italy shared 50/50 with support for England. We got to Mdina, Gozo, St Paul’s Bay and Valletta.

Problem is it’s all gone now. No dgħajsas, no Barrakka lift, no Gut and no Kingsway as I’d remembered. A few things hadn’t changed.

The buses were still yellow, Valletta was still as hilly and happily the Maltese people were still as nice and friendly as before.

Our most recent visit was in August. We did some of the same sights again and visited some of the same places and travelled the same buses – probably some of the same drivers from 1961 – and were not disappointed yet again.

My abiding memories have been the Maltese people who are very genuine and proud of Malta.

I wish the Barrakka lift was back and it was still built like Meccano and still made those creaking straining noises. I would pay a few euros to use it again.