TCA, or to give it its full name 2,4,6-trichloranisole, has long been associated with the musty taints often picked up in wines described as being “corky” or “corked”. In fact, the whole development of alternative closures such as screw caps and synthetic corks came about because of this TCA cork taint that affects so many bottles which was attributed to the actual cork closure itself.

TCA is an unpleasant smelling compound which is often caused by the action of chlorine during the processing of not just cork, but wood as well.

In truth, no one really seems to know where this taint comes from, it has been found in bulk wines, that have never been near cork or wood and it is a taint that is even found within the food industry. But because this “musty” aroma is actually very similar to the cork itself, understandably many consumers automatically blame the cork for the off odour, which simply (and unfairly) just might not be the case.

New research by Excell in France, which understandably is upsetting French barrel makers, now suggests there are several sources of TCA contamination of oak wood – they said it believed that infection occurs while the wood is being naturally dried and seasoned, but could not pinpoint how the contamination happened, despite having several theories on the subject.

The French coopers association Tonneliers de France, which described the results as “inaccurate and insulting”, argued that only 0.04 per cent of barrels produced in the last three years were suspected of being infected with TCA – fewer than 100 barrels out of about half a million. However, in reply the laboratory stated that “the extent of the problem is still severely underestimated by coopers and barrel-users, due to the extremely unpredictable, localised contamination of the staves”.