Our national Chihuaha complex
When the American pop star Kelis, visiting Malta for the MTV concert, posted a remark about the country on her Facebook page, she sparked a storm of comments by aggrieved locals. The singer's remark was innocuous and quite complimentary.
She wrote: "Malta is beautiful! Food so far is not amazing but it's so glorious here I will just drink good wine and eat bread." These were the first impressions - and overall positive ones - of a first-time visitor to the country.
There is no evidence of any intended slight, cultural superiority or dismissal of a nation's gastronomic heritage. Kelis' comment was simply an observation about her experience so far.
As such, I would have expected it to pass unmarked and uncommented as do so many similar utterances by pop singers and other minor celebrities (Jessica Simpson about the wonders of cupping or Jennifer Aniston about her baby food diet).
However, the good denizens of Malta did not take this affront to our glorious culinary heritage lying down. Armed to the teeth with their artillery of clichés, absurd non-sequiturs and woeful spelling abilities, they took to the keyboards to disabuse Kelis of any notion that she may have had about Maltese food not being uniformly excellent and delicious.
First bat went to two men who both said that Kelis should go back to her diet of burgers and chips and junk food. There they were happy with their alarmingly outdated stereotypes, letting the world observe their utter ignorance. Do they imagine that it's only Americans who over-indulge in junk food? Don't they know that Maltese children top the obesity stakes? That doesn't come from grazing on broccoli and snacking on strawberries.
More to the point, do they think that American cuisine is solely made up of burgers, chips and the occasional hot dog? Of course it's not. The 50 states all have different immigrant influences which make for a wonderfully varied cuisine which does not consist solely of gristle and fat.
The 'Americans are brought up on burgers, hot dogs and fries' refrain was taken up by a woman who peppered her comment with exclamation marks (a sure sign of poor writing style) and lamented the fact that Kelis could not partake of good Maltese home cooking which was the best in the world.
That may be the case, but short-term visitors and tourists may not have the opportunity to sit down for a family meal, so there's a lot to be said for having restaurants and bars which serve decent food.
Another eloquent person simply told Kelis to leave if she didn't like it. And someone else tried his hand at sarcasm, wondering if Kelis' taste in food had been influenced by the chef at the Waldorf Astoria or by the junk food which she could grab while on tour. He also exhorted the singer to stuff it and just go up there and do her thing as that is what she had been invited for and not for her culinary expertise.
That last statement reveals breathtaking levels of ignorance and arrogance. First, there's the totally unsubstantiated assumption that pop singers have never experienced the fine dining experience and cannot recognise good food when they taste it. Then there's the way that the commenter dismisses Kelis' comment because she's a singer, and singers should stick to singing and nothing else.
Well, I've got news for Mr Stuff It. Every visitor to Malta, every diner who goes to a restaurant on the island, has a profession or a job other than that of expert gourmand. That is no bar to their voicing their opinion and criticising the mediocre meals, the indifferent service, and the exorbitant prices that they may come across from time to time.
If the people in the restaurant and hospitality industry were serious about improving their product and service, they would be taking note of the criticism coming their way and strive to change things. Instead of that, we get the "shoot the messenger" reaction with angry and incoherent ravings directed at the person making the criticism.
I have noticed this kind of aggressive reaction mostly in cases where we perceive that the national honour is being affronted or anything Maltese is being criticised by a foreigner.
That's when we whip ourselves into a misguided faux patriotic fervour and snap and bitch at the offender. I think it's a case of national Chihuahua syndrome or Napoleon complex, which is the term used to describe a personality complex which consists of aggression and false machismo to compensate for short height and feelings of inferiority.
The people who yap and snap so loudly when confronted by criticism of anything Maltese feel they have to respond in this over-the-top manner to make up for the country's insignificance on the world stage.
They cannot come to terms with the fact that others may not regard Malta as the epitome of excellence in all fields and yelp away loudly.
In so doing they only reveal how ridiculous they are, which has always been the fate of Chihuahuas they so resemble.
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Keith Schembri
Jul 5th 2010, 06:58
If you had come to the Upper Barrakka event last night for the 4th of July, you'd have regretted having written :
"More to the point, do they think that American cuisine is solely made up of burgers, chips and the occasional hot dog? Of course it's not. "
'Cos we had popcorn as appetizers, then mini hot dogs and mini burgers served as dinner for the American Independence Day. I think I recognized some of journalists from the Times...you may cross-check if you want.
However you are 100% right about the Chihuahua syndrome 'cos for all the talk, we Maltese (the bureaucrats especially) wouldn't want to be caught dead promoting our national language. How many of our civil servants carry a visiting card in Maltese, even to Brussels where we expected and got all the official documents translated into Maltese? Zero.
Neville Borg
Jul 5th 2010, 01:42
It's a relatively well-known fact that Kelis took a break from her music career to qualify as a chef at some culinary college in the US. It would make perfect sense for her to take an interest in Maltese food and to pass an off the cuff remark about it. Perhaps the people who invited her to return to her diet of burgers and hot dogs should think twice before opening their pie-holes.
Trevor Lorenzo Mizzi
Jul 4th 2010, 18:28
"I think it's a case of national Chihuahua syndrome or Napoleon complex."
In your case Ms. Bonello, it is a typical case of the ever so common inferiority complex that is endemic with a lot of maltese people.
Raymond Cachia
Jul 4th 2010, 17:58
With all due respect this Kelis is no Gordon Ramsay. As a person who lives in North America, I know that what Kelis said has to be taken "with a grain of salt". Here, the epitome of haute cuisine for the middle classes is 'barbequed anything, and hot chicken wings. The working poor eat everyday the cheap food at MacDonald’s and KFC and ersatz take out Chinese food. Sure, this food is tasty in an artificial way, and is full of GMO, MSG, hormone and antibiotic loaded beef and chicken and other nasty additives too numerous to mention that companies here are not even legally obliged to list.
Even the US Government web site for Malta advises Americans coming for an extended visit to Malta to take marshmallows, Twinkies and Oreo cookies (these latter consist of two hard chocolate coloured biscuits, in between which is sandwiched a white lard and sugar mixture) as the 'baked goods and sweets' in Malta were of a poor standard and these items are hard to find. Oh what I wouldn’t give for even one the likes of Café Cordina in a city of over 2 million where I live!
M.Cassar
Jul 4th 2010, 15:12
Ms.Bonello, you are so right! This same syndrome was so manifest last Tuesday when we were attending the feast of St.Paul's at Palazzolo Acreide in Sicliy. A group of bare-chested Maltese visitors, who were on the parvis of St. Paul's Bar could be heared chanting away political slogans right at the moment when the much revered satue of St.Paul was about to be carried out of the church! It's incredible how the blissful ignorance of these so called Maltese citizens shame us with their actions!
Franco Farrugia
Jul 4th 2010, 16:57
'Bare-chested Maltese visitors'? Oh dear, how uncouth!
a calleja
Jul 4th 2010, 14:46
In defence of Chihuahuas:I believe that they only acquire the unpleasant attributes of many of my fellow countrymen so aptly described above, if they are encouraged to do so by their owners! My Chihuahua's behaviour belies the fact that he is actually a chihuahua; but this could be due to the fact that he is Hungarian....
Jeremy J Camilleri
Jul 4th 2010, 13:16
Sometimes I wonder why we bother....
Maltese do not accept criticism, and respond to any thing we take as a slight with unbridled aggression...
The go home if you don't like it argument is constantly being brought up...Take the crucifix issue! You had Maltese 'Catholics' extolling the cross and Christianity, and in the same sentence telling the 'others' to leave if they did not agree.
Now its not the crucifix...but our non existent local cuisine...
Karl Consiglio
Jul 4th 2010, 10:59
@Claire Bonello,
People would have let it go by, but since The Times itself felt it news worthy, then what do you expect?