First glimpse of Mount Everest

(Thursday, September 3 – 4.40 p.m.)

Just washed some clothes at the second day at the Everest Snow Leopard Guest House in Tingri – our last day under a roof and with access to a bathroom. It's been more than a week now that we left Malta and the mountain is getting closer.

We had the first glimpse of (the north face) of Everest yesterday but Cho Oyu (the closer of the two) was covered by clouds. Shishapangma – the 14th highest mountain could be seen to the west.

But this morning Cho Oyu revealed its full magnificance... we had a totally unobstructed view of Cho Oyu, - a view so clear that Victor could indicate the position of the 'false' summit, Camp III and also Camp II. Cho Oyu's dominance on the Tibetan Plateau is awesome. My thoughts went back to the turn of the 20th century when the first explorers were exploring the Himalayan range trying to find a way up these giants, who the Tibetans and Nepalis consider as Gods.

My day didn't start so well this morning and I had had the first taste of the unenviable process of acclimatisation. I had a bad night – it started off with a headache yesterday evening – my head felt compressed – but I opted to not take any pills. Wrong decision. Try as I may, I tried to get myself to sleep by kick-starting a dream but sleep was irregular. In the morning I had a couple of paracetamol and I felt as good as ever within half an hour. The other guys had a great night it seems – including Greg, who's normally very envious of my ability to sleep anywhere and anytime.

We had a six-hour acclimatisation trek up a couple of small mountains up to an elevation of 4,800m today. (We started off at 4,300m). 4,800m is the height of the highest mountain in Europe, Mount Blanc in the Alps – and yet here it seems like a walk up a hill. I maintained by pace at a heart rate of 140 beats per minute; at which pace I seem to be able to walk forever. Over-exerting myself at this stage will compromise the rest of my expedition.

Tomorrow, we drive to Chinese Base Camp (5,000m) which is where the road stops. From then on any progress up the mountain will have to be on foot.