Carlotta Pasqua's fondest childhood memories are of her travelling across Europe with her father Carlo at the age of 13, visiting customers in London, Dublin, Germany and Finland, and attending wine tasting events.

"I used to, as we say 'carry his bag', and offer and pour wines at events," she recalls, "but I was also listening and observing everything around me. It taught me a lot about the business, and gave me the chance to meet numerous people from all over the world.

"Every year, one of the most exciting events for me was Vinitaly (Italy's top international wine exhibition). I would work at the stand - which was very different from today - mostly cleaning glasses in a little kitchen. But it was nice meeting customers and friends. When I think about it now, it was very satisfying, because I felt part of the family business, and I was proud to be there."

Ms Pasqua, 34, is the first woman to be involved in the running of the Pasqua wine business. Founded in 1925 by brothers Riccardo, Natale and Umberto, Pasqua is one of Italy's foremost wineries. Now managed by the second generation Pasquas, Carlo, Umberto and Giorgio, the business moved to a new winery in San Felice Extra, Valpantena, northeast of Verona, in June 2007.

A sommelier by training, Carlotta formally joined the business in 2002 after studying public relations in Milan and undertaking some work experience. While running public relations for Pasqua's export business, she completed her MBA at the MIB School of Management in Trieste in 2006. A member of the Donne del Vino Wine Association and vice-president of the Young Wine Producers Association, Ms Pasqua now heads the family business' entire PR operation.

She is one of three cousins representing the third generation, along with Giovanni, a winemaker, and Riccardo, who is export manager for the US and Canada.

"For me, being a woman here means being prepared and professional, bringing organisational skills, working to create the right environment for people to work together as a team," she says. "Women usually consider a winery their home - we try to treat it in the same way, with lots of care.

"Today there are many women involved in different areas of this business: owners, sommeliers, winemakers, journalists, buyers. It is no longer a sector made only of men. Wine has also become a matter of culture, history, tradition, and fashion. There are a lot of professional, well-prepared women, motivated and passionate and very dynamic."

Ms Pasqua would need to be passionate and very dynamic - her family's winery is considered to be among the country's most innovative, a philosophy, she explains, that combines tradition with research and innovation in all the company's areas. Pasqua was one of the first to use the screw cap seal and provides 'bag in box' packaging for some wine destined for the Scandinavian and other Anglo-Saxon markets. All the while, Pasqua remains faithful to its Veronese terroir and tradition, constantly working on improving the quality of its Valpolicella and Amarone wines.

Ms Pasqua heads a team of four running the marketing and PR for Pasqua and spends most of her time investing in promotional events.

"In May we launched the first edition of Pasqua Star Taste Master, a wine and food experience combining our wines with the excellent food of Michelin chef Andrea Berton and the stars of AC Milan. It was an innovative way to promote our Italian style in the world.

"Earlier this month, we presented the first Italian 'wine dating' event in Milan, a new, informal, fun, wine game dedicated to young people - a kind of new way of tasting wines while exploring the five senses. We also publish an online monthly newsletter called E-passion (www.passioneperilvino.com or www.pasqua.it)."

She believes Italian wine, like most Old World wines, is enjoying somewhat of a revival, rediscovered, she says, "for its elegance and uniqueness, made of terroir and history which contributes to build its strong and personal identity."

"Italy could offer a unique, wide and rich choice of different wines from several different native grapes varieties," she explains. "Each one of the 20 Italian regions has a strong wine identity, and could offer both, quality and price, making wines pleasant and affordable."

Domestically, she says, until the end of last year, Italy saw a general slowdown in the sector which also affected wine consumption. Sales moved from the on-trade to the off-trade market, and supermarket sales rose. It was probably because in times of crisis, people still need to treat themselves but at home, rather than in a restaurant. But, there have been positive signals since March.

Pasqua is well established in 40 countries abroad, with the UK and Canada as the main export markets where it maintains its market share. Ms Pasqua says that thanks to a wide product portfolio with good value for money in the off-trade, Pasqua also has grown in the US, and will continue to invest in its five main export markets while trying to open new doors.

She says that one of the most important things she learned from her father was passion for the wine business, instilling in her the drive to work for quality and always doing the best she can.

"I learned from my dad how to listen to people to discover their needs and to always provide them with the best, by establishing a strong, personal relationship. It also makes business fun, even if you are working hard. I have always admired my dad's capacity to look far forward, to be sensitive about markets and innovation, and accepting the risks. I hope it will happen to me as well."

Bersano brand manager Erika Abate may not be a member of the winery's family but is proud to belong to four generations of vine dressers. She grew up in the vineyards, "tasting little drops of wine". She describes the time as being part of her education, "educating the palate as a sort of physical exercise; tasting as many wines as possible is the best way to learn".

Ms Abate, 35, read marketing and communications at Turin University and worked for food giant Nestle before joining the 19th century winery in Nizza Monferrato in the Barbera d'Asti region. With its 230 hectares of vineyards boasting annual mother stock, Bersano is one of Piedmont's most important privately-owned wineries with an "almost maniacal" passion for its vines.

Ms Abate, a sommelier, says the best part of her job is contributing to elevating the status of Italian wines around the world, making her territory known internationally.

"Promoting wines around the world is like travelling with your own children in a bag. You are never alone," she enthuses. The tough part is that, generally speaking, the wine business is a 'low business' - you never see the results of your efforts in the short term. You need to be patient if you really like this job."

She says many women in the wine business are incredibly positive and tenacious, using their sixth sense in their work to give them a certain edge. But prejudice still exists, she admits.

"Whenever I say I travel around the world half the time, people look at me as if I come from Mars," Ms Abate smiles. "I have a great sense of humour so I always pull through in a tough situation. Women who belong to wine families are more respected at first, but when people understand how much passion and dedication other women put into their work, the difference is no longer important.

"Arturo Bersano, our founder, used to say 'if you want to drink a good wine, buy yourself a vineyard'. It doesn't mean that everyone should have his or her own vineyard but only the ones who put their soul into this business can produce and promote good wines."

She is also a passionate wine, food and travel writer, but emphasises she does not have the skills to be a critic.

"In wine and food, the best thing is always to have different opinions which should be noted and respected," she says. "Before a great wine, words must stop and silence should take over. I love writing and my stories are travel stories written with great passion. Writing about what I taste and what I see while travelling around the world becomes a tale every time. My writing is not associated only to the region where I work but I take inspiration from all places, food, drink and people I meet."

Italian wine, she says, has finally gained ground against its traditional rival, France. The strength of Italian wine has been recently recognised internally and it is a prize to have varieties which only grow on Italian soil.

"There is no other place in the world where you can produce such great wines as Barolo, Moscato, Gavi, and Brunello di Montalcino. That's really our winning ace: once people all around the world discover and taste our wine they recognise it as unique."

The Italians, like all other wines, have suffered a little in the crisis. Bersano has held its own particularly well as the family preserved the winery's traditions and its market share. Overseas, Bersano has a widespread sales network.

"In that way, you can find a balance between all markets and still be on the move," Ms Abate says. "In the current climate we have to keep going and face the crisis with a smile - otherwise we risk making things even worse. The Italian wine industry's weak point, in comparison to French wines, is poor marketing and promotion. We don't invest enough effort in promoting the value-added in our wines and in communicating it to the different target markets."

Ms Pasqua and Ms Abate will be among the wine experts travelling to Malta for the fourth Wine Experience organised by P. Cutajar at Razzett l-Abjad on Monday and Tuesday at 7.30 p.m. The event will feature 40 wines from Italy, France, Chile, South Africa, the US and Portugal. Experts from Pasqua, Bersano, Martini, Portugal's Altas Quintas, and Grand Chais de France will hold tutorials. For bookings contact Chris Gauci on 2144 8466 or at cgauci@pcutajar.com.mt. Admission is €5 per couple, which will be returned in tokens towards discounted wine purchases. Wine tasting is unlimited.

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