The current favourite name for veggies that grow underground is ‘roots’, with roasted roots, mashed roots or crushed roots turning up in cookbooks and magazines everywhere. But it’s a bit of a misnomer really because, if you want to be picky, roots only include such things as beetroot, carrots, radishes, parsnips, swedes and turnips, which are either taproots or tuberous roots.

Of the other underground veggies, onions, leeks and garlic are bulbs, celeriac is a corm and things like ginger and turmeric are rhizomes. Potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes are tubers, but sweet potatoes and yams are roots. Confused? So am I.

Whatever category you put them in, earthy vegetables all have one thing in common – they’re good for you. They are a good source of fibre, vitamins A, B, C and E, and ‘phytonutrients’. Brightly coloured veggies, like carrots and beets, are also packed full of that wonderful thing called beta carotene, though I’m never quite sure what all these things do for you.

After a surfeit of soft summer vegetables, I look forward to some gutsy roots. Winter stews need plenty of mash to soak up the gravy and you can ring the changes by mixing and matching potatoes, carrots, parsnips, swedes, sweet potatoes or whatever combination you like.

The ugly duckling of the vegetable underworld must surely be celeriac, but peel off its thick skin and you have a lovely mild celery flavour that marries well with other veg. Cooked with leeks in a silky white sauce under a crunchy topping, it’s quite delicious.

I ‘stole’ the carrot recipe from the internet ages ago, although it’s changed a bit since then. I love carrots and I’m always looking for different ways to cook them, and this unusual casserole is certainly different. It originally came from Finland where it’s called porkkanalaatikko.

Beetroot deserves better than to be just boiled and doused in vinegar. Try them hot tossed with brown sugar, balsamic and capers – they’re good served with gammon or anything grilled. Add diced beets to a salad with prawns and beans for a quick and easy starter or light lunch, or grate them raw and add to coleslaw.

Although I love all earthy vegetables, my absolute favourite is a baked sweet potato dripping with butter. Like pumpkin, they’re good in sweet tarts and pies too, and served with whipped cream or ice cream they make a delicious winter Sunday lunch pudding.

As for the curry recipe, that’s perfect for vegetarians – and it’s not bad for meat lovers either.

Recipes can be found in their section.

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