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What lies beneath

Valletta's sewerage system probably unparalleled in the 16th century

One of the entrances to the subterranean network of tunnels that forms part of Valletta's old sewage network.

One of the entrances to the subterranean network of tunnels that forms part of Valletta's old sewage network.

It is easy to see how the opulent riches of the St John's Co-Cathedral collection can overshadow a network of sewage tunnels in the debate on whether underground exhibition spaces should be excavated below the cathedral, but architect Edward Said says Valletta's subterranean sewage system is an important monument to 16th century engineering.

"While cities like London and Paris were wallowing in sewage, trying to cope with the pressure of urbanisation, Valletta had a sophisticated system which was probably unparalleled throughout Europe at the time," he explains.

Mr Said actually explored the tunnels personally for his dissertation on Valletta's subterranean network in 2005. What he saw fascinated him.

"To think that it was developed just two years after the Great Siege makes the whole structure seem even more incredible."

Bearing in mind the Knights' obsession with public health, he argues, the tunnels were meant to make sure that the fortress city would not be weakened through self-inflicted disease.

The existence of the tunnels, along with WWII air raid shelters and water cisterns in the precincts underneath St John's Square in front of the Cathedral, have been placed in the spotlight by the debate on the proposal by the Cathedral's foundation to dig up the street to make way for badly needed exhibition space.

A member of Fondazzjoni Wirt Artna, Mr Said makes it clear he is not against the project as such, but is keen to ensure that the tunnels are preserved. The debate gives him the right platform to raise awareness about the value of the system.

"If we're smart, we would restore the section near St John's square and promote it as a tourist attraction as is done in other European cities which have such subterranean networks," he points out. "The whole structure is quite fascinating. The tunnels themselves are generally tight but they come in different sizes, different heights and typologies of construction.

They really need to be studied, especially as, so far, they remain largely intact.

To boot, the city is peppered with wells, some of them being massive vaults often several stories deep, particularly the ones which belong to palazzos.

In fact, Mr Said believes that underneath St John's Square, opposite the Co-Cathedral, there are such cisterns, considering that before World War II the square was occupied by at least two palazzos which were bombed during one of the many enemy air raids.

The young architect says the Cathedral's foundation appears to be willing to preserve the tunnels underground. In fact, its architect, Edward Bencini, says that the proposed extension could be limited to the area between the sewerage tunnels without disturbing them or the reservoirs in the area.

Mr Bencini also says that, if feasible, access to these tunnels and reservoirs - and possibly the foundations of the buildings in St John's Square that were destroyed during World War II - could be incorporated into the project, working in favour of these underground structures and possibly opening them for public viewing.

"The main point is that utmost care is being taken not to damage any underground structures," he stressed.

Still, the foundation's enthusiasm for the structures beneath the square is tempered by its desire to display the cathedral's riches.

"One needs to explain what the tunnels meant," the foundation said. "They are mainly narrow trenches hewn out of the bedrock for raw sewage to flow through them to an outlet to the sea... Probably they are too narrow to be used for anything else. One needs to weigh what is more important - losing a few metres of sewage trenches that run around St John's street or exhibiting the largest collection of Flemish tapestries in the world.

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