• email article
  • print article
  • small text sizemedium text sizelarge text size
  • comment on this article

Is St John's a church or a museum?

There is nothing that compares to St John's Co-Cathedral in the Mediterranean; in fact in the whole of Europe if not the world. If one had to assess it treasure for treasure, then yes, there are plenty of churches that will outdo it hands down. It is not the two Caravaggios that make it, nor is it the Preti ceiling or the silver gates but the deep national symbolism that the church has for the Maltese people; eliciting a love and respect that's bred in the bone. Whether consciously or not, more than any other building left to us by the Order, St John's is synonymous with our nationhood. It was designed by a Maltese architect and built by Maltese master masons and master craftsmen. That its flooring is also a vast armorial fantasy in inlaid marble covering the remains of all those rampollini from the grandest aristocratic families of Catholic Europe is incidental, for, strewn among them, are also a number of illustrious Maltese, including a collateral ancestor of mine whose epitaph begins "Melitensium Ingeniorum Phoenix...", a phoenix of Maltese intelligence. Fra Salvatore Imbroll, Grand Prior of the Langue of Italy, was credited with inventing the specula melitensis but that is another story.

This spectacular "jewel in the crown", as some correspondent aptly called it, has been the subject of controversy since the Foundation put forward its proposals to extend the cathedral's museum space by building over the churchyard in Merchant's Street or excavating a large vault either underneath the oratory or just off it; a sort of riposte to the Louvre Pyramid? The excuse is that the Gobelin tapestries donated by Grandmaster Perellos as his gioia are not properly displayed and, as they no longer are placed in the cathedral itself for the feast of St John as they had been for over three centuries, it was felt, quite rightly, that somewhere had to be found wherein this unique set could be displayed in all its splendour reflecting the same display as in the church. A very reasonable decision indeed, one may argue, however the problem is where and how to do it.

The fundamental and determining question here is whether St John's is a living church or just another museum. Many times in the past have I seen with my own eyes the Pinto or Cotoner set of vestments being worn by the clergy; something that was quite normal up to a few years ago till they were deemed to be too precious to glorify the Almighty!

The visual effect was awe-inspiring. For three centuries the cathedral chapter had worn these wonderfully wrought masterpieces in ecclesiastical haute couture marked with the arms of the grandmasters without much fuss and, without a doubt, with a special way of caring for them that must have been handed down from sacristan to sacristan for generations as they have survived for 300 years in pretty good nick.

Now they have been deemed to be exhibits along with the chalices, crosses, incense burners, monstrances, reliquaries and other ecclesiastical paraphernalia while the actual religious ceremonies have become more and more visually pedestrian every year. There are vehement divergent opinions about what should be done, however I strongly feel that that the museum aspect of St John's is being overdone at the expense of its traditionally symbolic and religious function.

Because of the vast concourse of daily visitors an ugly green carpet now obliterates a fifth of the floor and has covered poor Salvatore Imbroll and the grandees that flank him. It should have never been laid. In Frederick the Great's palace of Sans Soucis in Potsdam, felt overshoes that not only protect the marble inlay but keep it shiny and clean as well are worn by all and sundry. That however is peripheral to the current controversy.

The construction of an underground bunker anywhere near the cathedral is utter nonsense when only a few months ago concern was expressed about the roots of the trees in St John's Square potentially damaging the foundations. A couple of trees were subsequently destroyed! Building over the graves of the fallen in the Great Siege of 1565 is simply anathema and not even to be thought of. The Foundation must therefore go back to the drawing board and think of an alternative solution. There are a number of abandoned houses adjacent to the cathedral that could be used. In Colmar, the magnificent Isenhiem altarpiece painted by Matthias Grunewald which is absolutely huge is housed in a museum across the square. Therefore there is nothing wrong in extending the museum space in this way.

Cafeterias are not even to be discussed as there are at least three in the cathedral's shadow already that look like cloves of garlic on a soufflé! Are our traditions and heritage being transmogrified to appease the great god Mammon? Are tourists being given more importance than us Maltese? I hope not.

kzt@onvol.net

  • Google Bookmarks Del.icio.us Facebook Blogger YahooMyWeb Digg Reddit Stumbleupon
  • email article
  • print article
  • small text sizemedium text sizelarge text size
  • comment on this article

Comments

Mario Grungo (on 21/9/08)
A church is a church, no matter what. The knights built it as their conventual church and it was customary for them to bestow gifts to it, to make it even more beautiful, not to turn it into a museum. Let us leave it alone to serve its main purpose, that of a place of worship. The vatican is a case in point. It is a place of worship first and foremost. Must we spoil everything in the name of tourism. St John;s is a gift to the Maltese and to the world. Let us treat it with respect and dignity.
Joseph Schembri (on 30/8/08)
KZT "Are tourists being given more importance than us Maltese? I hope not."

I think they are Kenneth. When I am in Valletta I like to go to St. John's and visit the holy Eucharist in the quiet Chapel. I am invariably stopped and questioned as to my intentions by the 'guards' at the main door. Some time ago I was asked a ridiculous question by one of these people. It was "Do you want to visit this as a museum or as a Church?"

While saying this I urge fellow Maltese to sometimes attend the Sunday 9.15am Latin mass at St. John's. It is a beautiful mass and the choir deserves special mention.
Raymond Sammut (on 27/8/08)
@ Astrid Vella

The Maltese people are entitled to have the Opera House restored to them. The Maltese government had received funds for its restoration under the Marshall Plan. One has to ask where has this money gone, and who is accountable for it.

Are we suggesting that this could be the reason why Maltese politicians never restored this other monument in Valletta -- they had been earmarking the site for themselves. I think there is a case to be made here. The Opera House is another colossal scandal to be brought to the attention of the public.

I have always been convinced that the Maltese government was dishonest on this issue, even contemptible toward the very people it pretends to represent in parliament. A new grand parliament on the Opera House site is just what they want. It would allow them to continue to increase their numbers, dress and amplify their dishonesty, their sheer utter lowness, and their contempt toward the very people who vote them in. They should not be allowed to use this site for any purpose other than to rebuild the Opera House.
Martin Rossignaud (on 27/8/08)
When the Knights built St.John's Co-Cathedral they surely never had in mind to turn it into a museum let alone a fully fledged one and with a cafeteria too!!!!. Whoever in the Foundation proposed to build over the courtyard and/or excavate underground as well as those other members of the Foundation who agreed with this proposal should resign forthwith. We do not need such person to handle our jewels. To all I tell them 'Hands off'' and urge MEPA not to even consider the application. The Minister, namely the Prime Minister, responsible for MEPA should intervene and close case once and for all.
Anne Marie Kissaun (on 26/8/08)
I hope that this subject regarding St. John 's Co. Cathedral will be brought to a close sooner rather than later. In my opinion, the Cathedral should not be tampered with. It is too precious. Afterall, it is a church not a museum and should be treated reverently and anybody should be able to walk in without any interference from any body demanding money. Therefore, for preservation's sake the tapestries should be located in a different building, close to the Cathedral and that the amount of tourists taken to the Cathedral have to be controlled.
Astrid Vella (on 26/8/08)
@Mike O’Hara: Unfortunately there is talk that the Opera House is earmarked for the new Parliament, and not even for its original musical role, so that seems to be out.

@Tony Borg, you talk about obsessions, but it’s very funny how everyone is obsessing about the Louvre, British Museum and now the Athens Underground and the German Parliament; everyone is comparing apples to pears, because those are all secular buildings and this is a CHURCH we’re talking about. Doesn’t it strike you as strange that we’ve listed Vienna, Cologne, Florence, Milan, and Siena Cathedrals, not to mention our own Mdina Cathedral, ALL of which have expanded off site, and yet no-one quotes them as parallel cases? What does that tell you about where such contributions are coming from?

Isn’t logical that such cathedrals don’t have museum space,as no ancient cathedral was built with a museum in mind. It just puzzles me how a the solution of a accommodating the cathedral museum in a nearby building is acceptable for some of the greatest cathedrals in Europe,but not for St. John’s? Once the collections move out, there is a far greater chance of accommodating the tapestries within the Cathedral complex.
Anton pizzuto (on 26/8/08)
i will answer KZT question. It is a Church first and foremost at least for those of us who were born and bred in Valletta. We should have only one comment to make to the Foundation proposals "Hands off St John Co-Cathedral !".
If we really need more space why not take over the shops (jeweller, drapery, souvenier shop , banks museum etc) all situated within the Cathedrals block.
With regards to the knights cemetry I invite all and sundry to see the continuous desecration by the restoration workers (?) who use it as an open storage space for their materials.
As a matter of information their used to be a set of "Pinto" sacred vestments at St James Church in Merchants Street (Formerly Istituto Maltese per l'educazione Cattolica ) popularly known as San Gakbu.These vestments possibly formed part of the St John.s set. Archbishop Paul Cremona should know about these as it was here that he got his fundamental religious formation. San Gakbu had a very close relationship with St John ( our First Holy Communion and Confirmation ceremonies were held there
James A. Tyrrell (on 26/8/08)
Kenneth Zammit Tabona can I just say what an excellent letter this is. It makes such a nice change to see someone write so well and so passionately about this beautiful cathedral. You must feel so proud every time you enter to know that one of you ancestors is buried within it. At the end of the letter Kenneth you say, "Are tourists being given more importance than us Maltese? I hope not." As a tourist I echo that sentiment. I'm sick and tired of reading that some environmental or historical rape is being carried out in the name of tourism. We come to Malta for its history and environment. The last thing any decent tourist would want is to see that history tampered with in their name. We don't mind walking a few metres!

Maria Farrugia, what a terrible experience for you and your friend. Surely any Maltese person should be able to enter any church at any time to pray. To be asked to leave and pay to enter as tourists is disgraceful.

My final words speaking as a tourist, Leave St. John's Co-Cathedral alone.

Mike O'Hara (on 26/8/08)
Has anyone considered using the site of the Opera House for this museum? It seems unlikely that a rebuilt Opera House would be commercially viable, it is close to the Cathedral and would be a very positive use for this prominent site. I'm sure architects would relish the challenge of using sympathetically the remnants of the bombed building.
Franco Farrugia (on 26/8/08)
@ Tony Borg - It would be ideal to leave such things 'to experts'. But time has proved that this could be wrong, the way things take place in little Malta. After all, it was 'experts' who came out with these two brilliant ideas in the first place.

Once again, you mention many places abroad, ... none of which is a church, let alone a Knights' Cathedral! But we have been listening to this mantra for many, many weeks, now.

The only space there is within the Co-Cathedral, sir, to build, is the graveyard. Have you ever been at the graveyard in question? Have you ever experienced its aura of tranquility? All that is due to the architecture around it as well as the fact that it is the graveyard of the Knights. It is also an open space - so, let's not destroy it.

Once again, I have to repeat - ad nauseam, funny nobody writes back to contradict me on this one - that the Cathedral Museum in Mdina is a fine example of how things could be done: there's nothing wrong with finding a very nearby palazzo to house parts of the artefacts of the Museum.

Sergio Galea Vincenti (on 26/8/08)
It is heartening to read a well-balanced opinion like Mr. Zammit Tabona's on the proposed project of St. John's Co-Cathedral.

I am of the opinion that the Foundation may have - in its genuine enthusiasm - overlooked certain aspects which would merit more thought. The first being the very protection of the religious character of the Co-Cathedral and the Knights' Graveyard and the imperative need to protect the Co-Cathedral and its surroundings against any unnecessary risks particularly in the presence of options which may prove to be more beneficial in the long-term.

The use of an alternative site for the museum would relieve the Co-Cathedral of the current flow of people and allow for the better balancing and management of the Co-Cathedral and its vast treasures whilst, at the same time, assist in the regeneration of some disused structure (of which a number of options have been raised by various contributors) and thus give more life to our capital city.

Why undertake the risky aspects of the project when objectively other more viable and less costly options may indeed exist?
Tony Borg (on 26/8/08)
Why don't we let the experts study the proposals and then decide? In many other cities in the world there are first class museums that have had to be developed in order to showcase their treasures in a better way. Elsewhere in the Times blog, people have commented about Athens that was dug up for the new underground, the Louvre with its glass pyramid, the British Museum with its glazed centra courtyard, even the German Parliament in Berlin. KIn Malta we seem to have this obsession with keeping everything as it is. If there is space enough within the Co-Cathedral and next to it, that's where its museum should be extended. Taking all the artefacts that have been donated by the Grandmasters to the Co-Cathedral elsewhere would not be right.
Franco Farrugia (on 26/8/08)
Exactly - what's wrong with people removing their shoes before entering the Cathedral? Except for the clergy celebrating the liturgy, of course.
Maria Farrugia (on 26/8/08)
I believe that St. Johns is first and foremost a church. Recently I had a German friend visiting the island, and as is our custom, when we see a church, we go in and say a prayer for his dead daughter. We were rudely told to leave the premises, and if we were interested in viewing the church we could go in as tourists. I argued that since I am a Maltese practicing Catholic, I had the right to pray in church, given that the church was open. I did have my way, but we were treated like criminals, followed around and escorted outside as soon as they saw us get up from the kneelers.
Besides giving a very bad impression of our Maltese manners, critics of our Religion have every reason to say we are more interested in money than in worship. I have travelled abroad and visited some beautiful churches and I was always treated courtesly. I could pray to my heart's content. Their courteous reception of 'foreigners/tourists' in their churches always made me give a generous donation.
Raymond Sammut (on 26/8/08)
@ Kenneth Zammit Tabona

The point you make about the "felt overshoes" is not peripheral. I think it is very significant, and I am very glad that you brought it up. The absence of felt overshoes strongly reflects on the sheer incompetence of the six who are entrusted with the management of the most precious asset that Malta has. Come to think of it, even the manager of a ten-pin bowling centre applies a similar approach, and requires patrons to take their shoes off altogether.

In fact, try to imagine everyone visiting the Saint John's having to take their shoes off before they go in. And why not -- God's house. What a fuss it would be. I can picture ten or so smiling and energetic kids at the door guiding visitors place their shoes in pigeon holes for safe keeping, and giving them tickets that would enable them to reclaim their shoes on the way out.
Caroline crutchley (on 26/8/08)
We must stop this money making scheme dead !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Take one of the old townhouses close by , which is in a delapidated state , renovate it to its former glory and use that as exhibition space !!! Valletta is the winner

St John's is a church first not a tourist attraction !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Franco Farrugia (on 26/8/08)
Splendour does not only lie within the walls of St John's.
It is also reflected in he who showers that Cathedral with words that are humble yet proud in that they acclaim the place as the House of God, first and foremost.

'I strongly feel that that the museum aspect of St John's is being overdone at the expense of its traditionally symbolic and religious function.' - How true. How right!

Poll

Do you agree with the rebuilding of the Opera House site to house Parliament and a cultural centre?

  • yes
  • no
  • don't know
  • don't care


View results

Fun Stuff


Play Sudoku