When Napoleon Bonaparte visited Antwerp in 1803, he did not mince his words with his opinion of the city as "the most backward provincial nest I have ever seen".
The story goes that he slept on this thought overnight, and the next day - with the invasion of England at the back of his mind - he ordered docks to be built. To him the Scheldt, on the banks of which the city stands, looked like a gun barrel aiming at his biggest enemy - London.
Today's visitors to Antwerp, the second largest city in Belgium, will discover that it is modern, vibrant and full of surprises.
The busy port, which the French emperor helped to create, still plays an important role in the economic life of the place. But nowadays, with the lure of Rubens and diamonds, great architecture, fantastic shopping, atmospheric bars, and fine wining and dining, it's simply a great place to visit.
The Dutch have been making Antwerp a popular weekend break destination for years, whereas the typical holidaymaker will probably head for Bruges.
The two destinations have much in common, with beautiful buildings, museums and galleries, and shops selling exquisite, hand-made chocolates to tempt the most hardened of dieters.
But Antwerp has another jewel in its crown - the diamond industry. More than 80 per cent of the world's production of rough and industrial diamonds pass through the city, and a staggering 50 per cent of all polished stones are traded here. It's therefore no wonder that you will also find the most renowned, specialised diamond cutters and polishers in the world.
Hundreds of international firms have their headquarters in a heavily-guarded zone near the Central Station. Here, Belgians, Indians, Australians, Russians, Lebanese, Africans, Japanese and many other nationalities rub shoulders with one another.
Visit Diamondland to see professional diamond craftsmen at work and learn more about the industry. There's also a showroom with more than 2,500 pieces of diamond jewellery and polished diamonds on display. Any diamond purchased here comes with a certificate of authenticity.
There are even special packages available for couples looking for that perfect diamond ring - with hotel accommodation thrown in according to how much your chosen little rock will set you back. Chocolate diamonds are also on sale for those without the cash to splash on the real thing.
The Diamond Museum is also worth a visit while art aficionados may prefer to take in the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. Situated in the heart of the trendy southern part of Antwerp, this stately 19th century building houses some magnificent works of art and offers an overview of the history of artistic life in Flanders and Belgium.
Be prepared to be overwhelmed by an impressive collection of baroque art works by Rubens and his contemporaries. The 19th century salon artists and the modernist painters James Ensor and Rik Wouters are also represented.
Flemish masterpieces rub shoulders with works by artists such as Jean Fouquet, Titian, Frans Hals, Auguste Rodin and Amedeo Modigliani.
Peter Paul Rubens is probably Antwerp's best-known adoptive son. Although born in Germany, the artist made his home in the city and today his former home can be visited and admired.
He acquired the dwelling on Wapper Street in 1610 at the age of 33 and expanded it into a spectacular palazzo. The present collection of the Rubens House comprises 10 works by the master himself, including his renowned self-portrait.
The impressive Cathedral of Our Lady dominates the Antwerp skyline and boasts yet more breathtaking paintings by Rubens, including the Raising of the Cross and Descent from the Cross.
The cathedral, which took 170 years to build, is the largest Gothic church in the former Low Countries and has undergone extensive restoration. The centre of Antwerp boasts five prominent churches and the baroque St Charles Borromaeus Church is also worthy of a visit, if only to admire its magnificent façade.
If all this culture leaves you craving some retail therapy, you'll find the city is blessed with a rich and diverse range of stores. Even better yet, the shopping zones are contained in the cultural and historic sections of the city.
One of the many titles that Antwerp proudly used in the 16th century was de triomfelycke coopstad - or the renowned city for shopping - and today this still rings true. The majestic Meir is said to be the busiest shopping street in Belgium, attracting 240,000 visitors a week.
Lovers of bric-a-brac, old books and prints can go treasure-hunting in the shops along Minderbroedersrui, Hoogstraat and Kloosterstraat - one long street with a huge concentration of stores selling collectibles.
On Sunday mornings the stallholders of the famous Vogelenmarkt (bird market) set up shop. This is a spectacle that you really shouldn't miss, and illustrates how different cultures view God's creatures.
Antwerp is also alive with restaurants, bistros and pubs that often feature a regional menu. Typical Antwerp and Flemish specialities include stewed eel in chervil sauce, and huge pots of mussels as served at Brasserie Appelmans, just a stone's throw from the cathedral.
Belgium is, of course, famed for its beers - and the amber-coloured bolleke served in Antwerp's bars and restaurants is a popular choice. Also recommended is the Elixir d'Anvers, a liqueur with digestive properties based on 32 plants and herbs.
This is truly a city of contrasts where old and new sit comfortably side by side, providing a wonderful mix.
With a wealth of things to see and do, Antwerp is an ideal location for a weekend break and somewhere that Napoleon, given his change of heart about the city's attributes, may have considered taking Josephine. And who knows, he may even have contemplated buying her one of those sparkling diamond rings...
The story goes that he slept on this thought overnight, and the next day - with the invasion of England at the back of his mind - he ordered docks to be built. To him the Scheldt, on the banks of which the city stands, looked like a gun barrel aiming at his biggest enemy - London.
Today's visitors to Antwerp, the second largest city in Belgium, will discover that it is modern, vibrant and full of surprises.
The busy port, which the French emperor helped to create, still plays an important role in the economic life of the place. But nowadays, with the lure of Rubens and diamonds, great architecture, fantastic shopping, atmospheric bars, and fine wining and dining, it's simply a great place to visit.
The Dutch have been making Antwerp a popular weekend break destination for years, whereas the typical holidaymaker will probably head for Bruges.
The two destinations have much in common, with beautiful buildings, museums and galleries, and shops selling exquisite, hand-made chocolates to tempt the most hardened of dieters.
But Antwerp has another jewel in its crown - the diamond industry. More than 80 per cent of the world's production of rough and industrial diamonds pass through the city, and a staggering 50 per cent of all polished stones are traded here. It's therefore no wonder that you will also find the most renowned, specialised diamond cutters and polishers in the world.
Hundreds of international firms have their headquarters in a heavily-guarded zone near the Central Station. Here, Belgians, Indians, Australians, Russians, Lebanese, Africans, Japanese and many other nationalities rub shoulders with one another.
Visit Diamondland to see professional diamond craftsmen at work and learn more about the industry. There's also a showroom with more than 2,500 pieces of diamond jewellery and polished diamonds on display. Any diamond purchased here comes with a certificate of authenticity.
There are even special packages available for couples looking for that perfect diamond ring - with hotel accommodation thrown in according to how much your chosen little rock will set you back. Chocolate diamonds are also on sale for those without the cash to splash on the real thing.
The Diamond Museum is also worth a visit while art aficionados may prefer to take in the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. Situated in the heart of the trendy southern part of Antwerp, this stately 19th century building houses some magnificent works of art and offers an overview of the history of artistic life in Flanders and Belgium.
Be prepared to be overwhelmed by an impressive collection of baroque art works by Rubens and his contemporaries. The 19th century salon artists and the modernist painters James Ensor and Rik Wouters are also represented.
Flemish masterpieces rub shoulders with works by artists such as Jean Fouquet, Titian, Frans Hals, Auguste Rodin and Amedeo Modigliani.
Peter Paul Rubens is probably Antwerp's best-known adoptive son. Although born in Germany, the artist made his home in the city and today his former home can be visited and admired.
He acquired the dwelling on Wapper Street in 1610 at the age of 33 and expanded it into a spectacular palazzo. The present collection of the Rubens House comprises 10 works by the master himself, including his renowned self-portrait.
The impressive Cathedral of Our Lady dominates the Antwerp skyline and boasts yet more breathtaking paintings by Rubens, including the Raising of the Cross and Descent from the Cross.
The cathedral, which took 170 years to build, is the largest Gothic church in the former Low Countries and has undergone extensive restoration. The centre of Antwerp boasts five prominent churches and the baroque St Charles Borromaeus Church is also worthy of a visit, if only to admire its magnificent façade.
If all this culture leaves you craving some retail therapy, you'll find the city is blessed with a rich and diverse range of stores. Even better yet, the shopping zones are contained in the cultural and historic sections of the city.
One of the many titles that Antwerp proudly used in the 16th century was de triomfelycke coopstad - or the renowned city for shopping - and today this still rings true. The majestic Meir is said to be the busiest shopping street in Belgium, attracting 240,000 visitors a week.
Lovers of bric-a-brac, old books and prints can go treasure-hunting in the shops along Minderbroedersrui, Hoogstraat and Kloosterstraat - one long street with a huge concentration of stores selling collectibles.
On Sunday mornings the stallholders of the famous Vogelenmarkt (bird market) set up shop. This is a spectacle that you really shouldn't miss, and illustrates how different cultures view God's creatures.
Antwerp is also alive with restaurants, bistros and pubs that often feature a regional menu. Typical Antwerp and Flemish specialities include stewed eel in chervil sauce, and huge pots of mussels as served at Brasserie Appelmans, just a stone's throw from the cathedral.
Belgium is, of course, famed for its beers - and the amber-coloured bolleke served in Antwerp's bars and restaurants is a popular choice. Also recommended is the Elixir d'Anvers, a liqueur with digestive properties based on 32 plants and herbs.
This is truly a city of contrasts where old and new sit comfortably side by side, providing a wonderful mix.
With a wealth of things to see and do, Antwerp is an ideal location for a weekend break and somewhere that Napoleon, given his change of heart about the city's attributes, may have considered taking Josephine. And who knows, he may even have contemplated buying her one of those sparkling diamond rings...