Ancient Pompeii hits headlines again

Nearly 2,000 years after it was buried and preserved under a volcanic eruption, the ancient Roman town of Pompeii is hitting the headlines again as archaeologists and art historians state that it is being steadily worn away by modern woes.

Decades of neglect, millions of trampling visitors and the ravages of sunlight and rain are threatening to wipe out for good one of the world's most famous archaeological sites and Italy's top tourist attraction.

Archaeologists and art historians have long complained about the poor upkeep of the Pompeii treasures, warning that its fading frescoes, leaky roofs and crumbling walls would not survive the test of time.

The 66-hectare site, of which two thirds have been uncovered since excavations began 250 years ago, offers a unique glimpse into everyday life in an ancient Roman town, frozen in time by the Mount Vesuvius eruption in AD 79.

But little has been done over the years to stop the decay, and many of the site's once glorious artefacts - visited by 2.5 million tourists every year - are simply disintegrating.

Frescoes which would have been a rich "Pompeii red" when excavated in the 1800s have turned pinkish grey or peeled off altogether.

Scaffolding and steal beams prop up crumbling columns and roofs infiltrated by water. Many of the 1,500 houses at the site are closed to the public, either for repair works or for lack of custodians - guards who retired have not been replaced.

The Italian government this month declared a one-year "state of emergency" at the site, allowing for extra funds and special measures to be taken to protect it.

But experts say Pompeii needs meticulous daily maintenance rather than one-off interventions.

"The real problem here is that they start work, spend only a bit of money and waste it because the work never gets finished," said Antonio Irlando, who heads an independent observatory for the conservation of the artistic heritage of the Naples region.

"The root of the problem is a lack of vision and organisation in the overall management... This way Pompeii is heading towards inevitable destruction."

Overlooking the site's entrance, the Antiquarium museum has been shut for restoration works for nearly 30 years. Its contents - terracotta vases, statues and other artefacts - gather dust in what was once the granary, with tourists peering through the padlocked gates for a glimpse.

The nearby House of the Vettii, whose erotic pictures and lavish decoration have put it on every tourist's itinerary, has been closed to the public since 2001.

So is the House of the Amorini Dorati, despite a rusty plate proudly announcing the 2004 completion of repairs jointly funded by the European Union.

Vandalism, thefts and overcrowding have also taken their toll. Poor surveillance means visitors can easily cart away antiquities as souvenirs, carve their initials on 2,000-year-old walls or extinguish their cigarettes on ancient mosaics.

Tourists, in turn, complain about bogus guides and poor facilities at the site, where a visit can become much more expensive than the €11 entry ticket.

"We found that it was very hard to walk here - no drinks, no bathrooms," said American tourist David Gudalwski. "Everyone wants to give you a private tour - €80, €90, €100. Why don't they leave you alone."