There are also lots of modern paint effects that aren't a blast from the past and can be used to create a stunning feature wall.
Like most DIY jobs, some paint effects are easier to do than others but most are achievable with a little time, patience and practice.
The first thing to do is decide where you want your paint effect. More often than not, it will be a feature wall, but it could also be below or above a dado rail, above a picture rail, in an alcove/s, or on a chimney breast, etc - the choice is yours.
Some paint effects, such as stencilling, can, of course, work well on furniture and fitted units too.
If you're tackling a large area, it pays to get someone to help you, especially if you're doing a paint effect that requires you to work quickly while the topcoat is still wet.
For this reason, you should also have all your tools and equipment at hand before starting so there aren't any hold-ups. And for the best end result, ensure you first perfect the paint effect on a piece of board or a wall that you're planning to paint or paper over at a later date.
Assuming you're painting a wall or walls, prepare in the usual way. This means filling any holes and cracks, sanding and wiping clean, etc, and then applying a couple of coats of silk emulsion to form your base coat.
You may ordinarily prefer to use matt emulsion for walls, but silk is better for this job because the glossiness enables you to move the topcoat around more easily and so better create the paint effect.
The base coat must be completely dry before you begin and as you'll probably need a couple of coats, it's best to do this the day before you attempt the paint effect.
Paint-effect products used to be predominantly oil-based, which made them difficult to master, but most are now water-based, which makes them a lot easier to use.
There are various effects paints on the market, including ready-mixed scumble glazes, ones you tint yourself and an array of emulsion-style paints from the big manufacturers, producing everything from a velvet-like finish to a metallic one.
You can even use ordinary emulsion for some paint effects (mix three parts water to one part emulsion so it doesn't dry out too quickly) but you'll probably get a better result with a specialist product.
If you've chosen a product you mix up yourself, remember to make more than enough for the whole job and note the proportions you used in case you have to do it again in future.
Colour washing
One of the easier paint effects to master is colour washing, which can produce quite different effects, from soft feathering to prominent brush strokes. You start by applying a coloured glaze liberally over the dry base coat using, preferably, a special colourwash brush, though you could use a (wide) conventional paintbrush.
Apply the glaze randomly using criss-cross strokes: the more you work in the glaze, the softer your brush strokes will appear. You can also use a dry softening brush to do this. Once the glaze is dry, apply another coat if you want to intensify the effect or even use a different colour glaze. A similar effect can be achieved by using a cloth or painting mitten (in circular motions) to apply the glaze. This is known as clouding.
Rag rolling
Rag rolling is another favourite from yesteryear. This time, you apply your (diluted) glaze using a roller (or a brush around the wall's edges) so the base coat is just peeping through. Then take some material, preferably a shammy leather or a piece of slightly dampened cotton, form it into a sausage and roll it across the wet glaze. This will remove the glaze randomly, leaving you with the paint effect.
Start in an inconspicuous area and keep rolling till you perfect your technique. Once the material becomes saturated with glaze, wash it out or use a new piece. You can also get special rollers designed for this job.
Ragging is a similar technique, but you scrunch your damp cloth into a ball rather than a sausage and dab it over the wet glaze until you're happy with the result.
• In two weeks' time we will look at more paint effects.
Q&A
I've got very uneven kitchen walls and I don't want to replaster but I do want to repaint. Should I use conventional kitchen and bathroom paint?
The problem with this paint is that it has a slight sheen to make it easier to wipe clean, but this also shows up any imperfections in walls and ceilings so isn't ideal for your kitchen.
Fortunately, a few manufacturers produce a kitchen and bathroom paint with a matt finish. You won't get the big choice of colours otherwise available, but you can always introduce colour elsewhere in the room.
Best of all, your walls will be coated in a wipeable paint that's designed for high moisture and humidity but that doesn't show up all your lumps and bumps.
Like most DIY jobs, some paint effects are easier to do than others but most are achievable with a little time, patience and practice.
The first thing to do is decide where you want your paint effect. More often than not, it will be a feature wall, but it could also be below or above a dado rail, above a picture rail, in an alcove/s, or on a chimney breast, etc - the choice is yours.
Some paint effects, such as stencilling, can, of course, work well on furniture and fitted units too.
If you're tackling a large area, it pays to get someone to help you, especially if you're doing a paint effect that requires you to work quickly while the topcoat is still wet.
For this reason, you should also have all your tools and equipment at hand before starting so there aren't any hold-ups. And for the best end result, ensure you first perfect the paint effect on a piece of board or a wall that you're planning to paint or paper over at a later date.
Assuming you're painting a wall or walls, prepare in the usual way. This means filling any holes and cracks, sanding and wiping clean, etc, and then applying a couple of coats of silk emulsion to form your base coat.
You may ordinarily prefer to use matt emulsion for walls, but silk is better for this job because the glossiness enables you to move the topcoat around more easily and so better create the paint effect.
The base coat must be completely dry before you begin and as you'll probably need a couple of coats, it's best to do this the day before you attempt the paint effect.
Paint-effect products used to be predominantly oil-based, which made them difficult to master, but most are now water-based, which makes them a lot easier to use.
There are various effects paints on the market, including ready-mixed scumble glazes, ones you tint yourself and an array of emulsion-style paints from the big manufacturers, producing everything from a velvet-like finish to a metallic one.
You can even use ordinary emulsion for some paint effects (mix three parts water to one part emulsion so it doesn't dry out too quickly) but you'll probably get a better result with a specialist product.
If you've chosen a product you mix up yourself, remember to make more than enough for the whole job and note the proportions you used in case you have to do it again in future.
Colour washing
One of the easier paint effects to master is colour washing, which can produce quite different effects, from soft feathering to prominent brush strokes. You start by applying a coloured glaze liberally over the dry base coat using, preferably, a special colourwash brush, though you could use a (wide) conventional paintbrush.
Apply the glaze randomly using criss-cross strokes: the more you work in the glaze, the softer your brush strokes will appear. You can also use a dry softening brush to do this. Once the glaze is dry, apply another coat if you want to intensify the effect or even use a different colour glaze. A similar effect can be achieved by using a cloth or painting mitten (in circular motions) to apply the glaze. This is known as clouding.
Rag rolling
Rag rolling is another favourite from yesteryear. This time, you apply your (diluted) glaze using a roller (or a brush around the wall's edges) so the base coat is just peeping through. Then take some material, preferably a shammy leather or a piece of slightly dampened cotton, form it into a sausage and roll it across the wet glaze. This will remove the glaze randomly, leaving you with the paint effect.
Start in an inconspicuous area and keep rolling till you perfect your technique. Once the material becomes saturated with glaze, wash it out or use a new piece. You can also get special rollers designed for this job.
Ragging is a similar technique, but you scrunch your damp cloth into a ball rather than a sausage and dab it over the wet glaze until you're happy with the result.
• In two weeks' time we will look at more paint effects.
Q&A
I've got very uneven kitchen walls and I don't want to replaster but I do want to repaint. Should I use conventional kitchen and bathroom paint?
The problem with this paint is that it has a slight sheen to make it easier to wipe clean, but this also shows up any imperfections in walls and ceilings so isn't ideal for your kitchen.
Fortunately, a few manufacturers produce a kitchen and bathroom paint with a matt finish. You won't get the big choice of colours otherwise available, but you can always introduce colour elsewhere in the room.
Best of all, your walls will be coated in a wipeable paint that's designed for high moisture and humidity but that doesn't show up all your lumps and bumps.