The threat by the Baker's Cooperative to stop making the traditional Maltese loaf must have sent shock waves through lovers of hobz tal-Malti.

With its crunchy crust and soft inside, the loaf is a staple element in the local diet. If the Maltese agree on one thing it's their love of the heavenly aroma and delicious taste of a freshly baked hobza.

It also seems to be popular among some foreigners, with requests for recipes posted online, including on UK celebrity chef Delia Smith's recipe exchange message board.

According to the Health Interview Survey, Maltese eat an average of 2.2 slices of Maltese loaf a day, the most popular bread (brown bread was the least with 0.5) among locals.

The downside is that people have associated Maltese bread with the tendency to develop large hips and even larger tummies. Eating it in moderation does not seem to be everyone's credo, with some devouring up to 19 slices of bread daily. No wonder the Maltese are among the fattest in Europe.

Still, Mario Spiteri, the head of the Health Promotion Department, says people are better off eating a slice of the traditional loaf than sliced white sandwich bread.

"Maltese bread contains more fibre than sandwich bread, which also fails to provide the necessary nutrients," Dr Spiteri says.

He points out that the local loaf is a good source of fibre-rich starch and also rich in vitamin B, calcium and iron while low in fat content.

Of course, healthier alternatives do exist, with the preferable choice being high-fibre brown bread, which has a low glycemic index. "It gives you the impression that you're more full and therefore tend to eat less."

But at some 50c a loaf, Dr Spiteri thinks it is unlikely that the Maltese will go for it - even if bakers carry out their threat to stop making the traditional loaf.

"It is more likely that they will opt for sandwich bread." For a nation that is already tipping Europe's obesity scales, this does not make for a healthy prospect. Wholemeal bread, with its added wheat, bran and wholemeal flour, is the next best choice after high-fibre brown bread, especially because it has less saturated fats than conventional breads.

But even choosing the least unhealthy type of bread is not enough to ward off obesity. Dr Spiteri points out that a lot depends on what filling is used.

"Of course, fresh Maltese bread with a thick spread of butter and big chunks of cheddar cheese might taste delicious, but is high in fat content and frequent intake is not recommended."

On the other hand, the traditional hobz biz-zejt, prepared with fresh tomatoes and olive oil, can be a delicious and healthy meal, he says.

"Nowadays there are several dips and spreads based on the Mediterranean diet, which is recommended by nutritionists. Olive pastes, humus or bigilla (bean paste) are a good alternative."

And, yet, moderation remains key, since eating too much bread could be a recipe for disaster.

Threatening to stop making the Maltese loaf, the Baker's Cooperative has given the government until today to study their demands for a higher subsidy or an increase in the price of a Maltese loaf to make up for the sharp rise in the cost of flour. Up to yesterday, the government had not taken a decision.

The Maltese are keeping their fingers crossed that their beloved hobz tal-Malti will not soon become a thing of the past.

Scrumptious bread recipes

Bread pizza: Top a slice of Maltese bread with sliced tomato, lean ham, a slice of low-fat cheese and herbs before grilling.

Baked roll: Cut the lid off a large, crispy roll and scoop out the inside. Fill the roll with a mixture of drained tuna, cottage cheese, spring onion, parsley and breadcrumbs, before putting the lid back on. Wrap in foil and bake.

More healthy bread recipes can be found on a leaflet published by the Health Promotion Department.

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