Culinary delights
George Mercieca, administrative chef of the Victoria Hotel and soon-to-open Palace Hotel, takes the daunting task of running two hotels' kitchens in his stride
Planning a kitchen from scratch, even a domestic one, is always a headache. Planning a five-star hotel's kitchen and administering two kitchens at the same time is nothing if not daunting. This is exactly the brief facing George Mercieca, administrative chef for the Victoria Hotel and the soon-to-open Palace Hotel.
Mr Mercieca, who has held the post of administrative chef at the Victoria since its opening, now has his work cut out for him as he prepares to straddle the dual role of administration chef, both at the five-star Palace as well as the upper four-star Victoria.
At first sight, Mr Mercieca comes through as a rather humble, somewhat reticent talker. However, when he gets going, one detects a not indifferent pride in everything revolving around his role - from the selection of kitchen apprentices and the singling out of the cream of the crop, to the choice of appropriate kitchen gear, right down to the last dessert spoon. If ever you thought that a chef's life is just one whole juggle of pots, pans and ingredients, then you will have another rethink after this.
Mr Mercieca has spent slightly less than half his life employed with the AX Group in the group's various establishments including the Verdala Hotel, the Coral Reef, and the Suncrest and Victoria Hotels. At the moment, he is busy planning, designing and installing the new kitchens at the Palace.
The Victoria's unassuming administrative chef explains, in uncomplicated terms, the many different restaurant demands that distinguish a five-star from a four-star superior hotel.
"The requirements vary even in the quality and type of equipment as well as the production of everything in-house. This includes butchery, pastry, confectionery and ice cream, utilising all-fresh ingredients.
"In their particular case the Victoria's restaurants will have an edge on most other four-star superior restaurants, as the high standards of the five-star kitchen criterion will upgrade the quality of the service catering," he adds.
At the Victoria, Mr Mercieca already administers the restaurant requirements for the two bars and conference facilities and with the Palace, with the assistance of the executive head chef, he will be assuming control of an additional three quality restaurants - the Tabloid, TemptAsian lounge and the Talk of Town Café. Each of these new restaurants will be serving food unique to each other.
The Tabloid, the main hotel restaurant, will be serving a selection of five-star upgrade buffets, set menus and à la carte which will cater for breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as functions. Its foreign-made custom-built kitchen was designed to blend with the restaurant's décor. The other restaurant/lounge, TemptAsian, will be bringing together a fusion of Japanese, Chinese and Thai including popular items such as tapanades, sushi and sashimi. The Talk of Town is planned as a bistro/café serving grills and snacks aimed at attracting discerning non-residents seeking an attractive ambiance which moves with the trend.
All this, along with the location of the eateries on various floors, presented one big headache which had to be considered in the initial stages of planning. The complexity of organising, supervising and managing the main kitchens as well as the satellite kitchens which are included with each, and the fast access and inter-connections at the back of house, is mind-boggling.
Yet, Mr Mercieca describes it all in such a serene manner that one feels sure it will succeed magnificently.
Having given the details of the planning stages and the food concepts, Mr Mercieca downplays it all saying that it was actually all settled and put on paper within two days.
"The kitchens have arrived and are in the process of being installed. The checking and testing will come later. However, the real test will only come with the actual opening.
"It takes a while for the whole team to gel and for us to actually familiarise ourselves to moving around the kitchen effortlessly. But the proof of its efficiency can only be tested when the kitchen is actually in use and under pressure serving patrons," he says.
He likened the first time of a restaurant opening to a first night for a theatre actor. "The tension is the same." If one detail has been overlooked the whole production may suffer. "But", he smiled confidently, "if you plan tightly, there should not be any problems".
Part of the careful planning necessary for a smooth show also includes the purchasing of supplies. Mr Mercieca very happily refers to the advantage of having managed the Victoria's catering needs as it means that one is already familiar with the suppliers' quality. "This is a definite advantage for me."
He explains that initially he took a while before accepting the proposal as administration chef on both hotels. "To be honest I took quite a long time before actually reaching my decision. When I thought it over I recalled my years at the Suncrest - such a large hotel - with seven restaurants and nine bars, and told myself, if I managed there, surely after all these added years of experience I will manage here finely!"
It is not just good management that is needed though. Mr Mercieca was adamant on the importance of a professionally trained staff that is ready to do what it takes to make a success of the job. "If you want to learn, you just have to work hard and take pride in what you're doing, no matter how insignificant it may seem. You have to love your work."
He smiled as he recalled how things have changed over the years. "I was just 15 years old when I started at the excellent Catering School at the Polytechnic. Tourism was just taking off in Malta in 1969, but the opportunities were there for those who were determined.
"Now there is much greater competition but unfortunately sometimes one still encounters mediocre service. It is the quality of the service together with the excellence of the food that gives a restaurant its reputation.
"Both elements are imperative for one's success."
Mr Mercieca, who has held the post of administrative chef at the Victoria since its opening, now has his work cut out for him as he prepares to straddle the dual role of administration chef, both at the five-star Palace as well as the upper four-star Victoria.
At first sight, Mr Mercieca comes through as a rather humble, somewhat reticent talker. However, when he gets going, one detects a not indifferent pride in everything revolving around his role - from the selection of kitchen apprentices and the singling out of the cream of the crop, to the choice of appropriate kitchen gear, right down to the last dessert spoon. If ever you thought that a chef's life is just one whole juggle of pots, pans and ingredients, then you will have another rethink after this.
Mr Mercieca has spent slightly less than half his life employed with the AX Group in the group's various establishments including the Verdala Hotel, the Coral Reef, and the Suncrest and Victoria Hotels. At the moment, he is busy planning, designing and installing the new kitchens at the Palace.
The Victoria's unassuming administrative chef explains, in uncomplicated terms, the many different restaurant demands that distinguish a five-star from a four-star superior hotel.
"The requirements vary even in the quality and type of equipment as well as the production of everything in-house. This includes butchery, pastry, confectionery and ice cream, utilising all-fresh ingredients.
"In their particular case the Victoria's restaurants will have an edge on most other four-star superior restaurants, as the high standards of the five-star kitchen criterion will upgrade the quality of the service catering," he adds.
At the Victoria, Mr Mercieca already administers the restaurant requirements for the two bars and conference facilities and with the Palace, with the assistance of the executive head chef, he will be assuming control of an additional three quality restaurants - the Tabloid, TemptAsian lounge and the Talk of Town Café. Each of these new restaurants will be serving food unique to each other.
The Tabloid, the main hotel restaurant, will be serving a selection of five-star upgrade buffets, set menus and à la carte which will cater for breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as functions. Its foreign-made custom-built kitchen was designed to blend with the restaurant's décor. The other restaurant/lounge, TemptAsian, will be bringing together a fusion of Japanese, Chinese and Thai including popular items such as tapanades, sushi and sashimi. The Talk of Town is planned as a bistro/café serving grills and snacks aimed at attracting discerning non-residents seeking an attractive ambiance which moves with the trend.
All this, along with the location of the eateries on various floors, presented one big headache which had to be considered in the initial stages of planning. The complexity of organising, supervising and managing the main kitchens as well as the satellite kitchens which are included with each, and the fast access and inter-connections at the back of house, is mind-boggling.
Yet, Mr Mercieca describes it all in such a serene manner that one feels sure it will succeed magnificently.
Having given the details of the planning stages and the food concepts, Mr Mercieca downplays it all saying that it was actually all settled and put on paper within two days.
"The kitchens have arrived and are in the process of being installed. The checking and testing will come later. However, the real test will only come with the actual opening.
"It takes a while for the whole team to gel and for us to actually familiarise ourselves to moving around the kitchen effortlessly. But the proof of its efficiency can only be tested when the kitchen is actually in use and under pressure serving patrons," he says.
He likened the first time of a restaurant opening to a first night for a theatre actor. "The tension is the same." If one detail has been overlooked the whole production may suffer. "But", he smiled confidently, "if you plan tightly, there should not be any problems".
Part of the careful planning necessary for a smooth show also includes the purchasing of supplies. Mr Mercieca very happily refers to the advantage of having managed the Victoria's catering needs as it means that one is already familiar with the suppliers' quality. "This is a definite advantage for me."
He explains that initially he took a while before accepting the proposal as administration chef on both hotels. "To be honest I took quite a long time before actually reaching my decision. When I thought it over I recalled my years at the Suncrest - such a large hotel - with seven restaurants and nine bars, and told myself, if I managed there, surely after all these added years of experience I will manage here finely!"
It is not just good management that is needed though. Mr Mercieca was adamant on the importance of a professionally trained staff that is ready to do what it takes to make a success of the job. "If you want to learn, you just have to work hard and take pride in what you're doing, no matter how insignificant it may seem. You have to love your work."
He smiled as he recalled how things have changed over the years. "I was just 15 years old when I started at the excellent Catering School at the Polytechnic. Tourism was just taking off in Malta in 1969, but the opportunities were there for those who were determined.
"Now there is much greater competition but unfortunately sometimes one still encounters mediocre service. It is the quality of the service together with the excellence of the food that gives a restaurant its reputation.
"Both elements are imperative for one's success."