In praise of Maltese bread

How strange that, as man advances and betters himself, he so quickly forgets what he has left behind. It is not uncommon for the nouveaux riches to escape their former humble origins. In this age of unimaginable advancement in the food industry, these days of freezer food and microwave it seems we are fast forgetting our roots, where we came from, what sustained us for so many generations. We move with the flow, with what is "in" far too easily. Perhaps in the daily rat race that most of us are caught up in we are too ready to compromise for lack of time.

For centuries, long before the advent of pasta and potatoes, bread was the staple food of every household and the survival of most, not only in Malta but across Europe. Bread was revered not only for its Christian connection, but, more so, because it literally kept body and soul together. The shape of a cross was incised in the risen dough and then the baked loaf was crossed again before cutting with the bread knife. No one would pass by a dry crust in the street without stopping to pick it up and often kissing it before placing it upon a doorstep.

Luckily, as with our warm sun and clear seas, we have been blessed with very good bread. Edward Leopardi, in his Malta's Heritage, way back in 1969, includes bread and honey in the section titled Of Things Maltese. Undoubtedly, well-baked bread using the traditional slow process, which could take up to six and seven hours, tops the list in what is best of Maltese food. In my experience as a restaurateur, I have never known guests not to comment on the good quality of the bread served and then go on to devour a basketful as kumpanacc with their antipasti or mizè.

Foreigners are ecstatic, coming from large cities such traditional quality is a rarity. They often enquire about the bakery, and usually ask: "Why don't we get this at our hotel? Is it hard to come by?"

"No, madame, there are more than 100 traditional bakeries on this small island, all of which deliver door to door!"

When they are told the price they laugh.

Edward Leopardi goes on to state: "But Maltese bread is looked upon by many a visitor to Malta as a particular treat to their holiday in these islands".

Here we are almost 40 years later in the middle of a dispute between the Bakers' Association and the government over a couple of cents in the price of a loaf of what is arguably the best bread in the world! As was the case with everyone else, the costs for bakers have soared too. Diesel used both as oven and van fuel has risen in price by 40c in the gallon over just one year. The price of flour went up by 33c every sack. While crying out for help, the bakers are worried about an increase because they fear that sales might drop further.

For the government, it seems the days of handing out further subsidies are over and rightly so. Let's face it, there hasn't been a breadline on this island for half a century; the word is barely used metaphorically anymore.

So what should one do?

The bakers should go for an increase; indeed they should insist on a full liberalisation of bread prices, as has been the case with the fancy bread, tal-Franciz, keep the quality up and, possibly, improve delivery service. A large loaf that costs 21c is unbeatable in terms of value for money. Comparatively, vendors of fancy bread can get away with murder. Just think of the awful qaghaq ta' l-Appostli, sold off the back of vans in our piazzas during Holy Week no cheaper than 50c a ring. I say awful because most are baked haphazardly and turned out by the hundreds to cash in on tradition and make a quick buck. Here is where the government must step in. Indeed, it is in duty bound to protect, promote and reward!

The Malta Tourism Authority must feature the hobza in its ongoing branding exercise. This is Malta food more than any other item, definitely more than some exotic lobster flown in from some remote island half way away across the globe.

Hotels and restaurants should find themselves a reliable supplier of good Maltese bread and offer it to guests, both local and foreign. It will possibly cost you less. Foreign customers would have come to Malta to taste Maltese bread too! Festa food vendors should offer a crusty ftira or hobza biz- zejt alongside burgers and hot dogs. If it is good it will sell.

We all love our hobza and would all be very sorry to lose it or to lose its unique taste and texture. This will happen sooner than we think if we don't all pull at the same rope. The baker's life is not an easy one. He works long hours, very long hours... very long unsociable hours. It is a miracle that some young men still take up the challenge. The alternative is to give way to a mass produced industrial lookalike. Then we'll really be sorry, and ashamed too!

Mr Sammut is a trustee of Fuklar, the Foundation for the Promotion of Maltese Food Culture.