When in Malta... eat typical Maltese food

Fondazzjoni Fuklar, the movement for the promotion of Maltese food culture, is continuing on its insatiable mission to highlight the importance of utilising indigenous produce in our food.

The foundation's argument is being further strengthened by renowned food writer Mary Taylor Simeti, who is delivering a lecture tomorrow on Island Hopping, Fork In Hand.

Ms Taylor Simeti, the author of On Persephone's Island: A Sicilian Journal and Pomp And Sustenance, A History Of Sicilian Food, among others, intends to stress on the importance of appreciating, taking pride in and continuing to research and develop a country's particular indigenous culinary traditions.

Born and bred in New York, but having lived in Sicily for the past 40 years, the author would be drawing parallels between Malta and Sicily, which have much in common, and other similar Mediterranean islands she has visited.

Her life in Sicily has given her a sense of how present-day eating habits stem from a particular conjunction of geographical, historical and cultural elements and, therefore, constitute a basic source of identity.

The parallels between anything Maltese and Sicilian are "great", stressed Fuklar founder member and restaurateur Julian Sammut. "In fact, once the cultural influence of 160 years of British rule fades away, we are, basically, Latin Mediterranean, but closest to Sicily. Most of our local traditions, from the zeppoli of San Guzepp to the Good Friday processions, are also part of the Sicilian culture. The famous cassata siciliana is Sicilian, as its name suggests, but it has taken on its own distinct local identity."

The foundation is urging food lovers, but especially those who are involved in the industry, to attend the talk.

"The people in the trade should take an interest," insisted Mr Sammut, who is an amateur of Mediterranean culture, and particularly its food.

The main aim of the lecture is to educate and stimulate; to help the Maltese understand, and particularly those in the catering and hospitality trade, that Malta has a lot to offer and that the trade should be developed for the country's own good, for the enjoyment of the Maltese and tourists alike, and also because it makes commercial sense.

"We have a pretty rich culinary history," he pointed out, adding that any cuisine is alive and has to keep on developing. To do so, produce that is typical of and natural to the area, as well as "friendly to our kitchens", should be used in both traditional and innovative ways.

Mr Sammut has been repeating ad nauseam his shock at the fact that tourists are served frozen salmon in hotels in the height of the lampuki season. "It is crazy!"

Why do good fish restaurants have an array of fine fish on their menu, including fresh salmon, but no lampuki, or certain traditional fish recipes, like octopus stew and stuffed calamari?

"Why is it that all there is to eat at villages feasts are hot dogs and hamburgers? It is tragic! Why are there not any stalls selling fresh ftira, for example? Why are Maltese sausages, or bigilla not sold? Why do we have to have imported sausages? Why cannot we have good pulpetti if we absolutely have to have hamburgers? We have more doughnut than mqaret stands. Half the people at festas are tourists and they do not want to taste doughnuts! They want typical Maltese food."

Mr Sammut said he expected not just chefs and food and beverage managers, but also the owners of hotels, to a certain extent, to lead the way in the preservation and promotion of traditional Maltese cuisine.

"Why is bigilla described on menus as a delicate traditional pâté of mashed broad beans? It should be presented for what it is: a basic, typical dish."

Thin slices of veal, which go down very well these days, should be cooked with local ingredients, such as thyme, honey, lemons, oranges and other local tastes, and not like everyone else prepares them, he suggested.

"Where in Malta can you eat a good timpana, or imqarrun, which are excellent, tasty dishes?"

Mr Sammut also questioned why most of the tourism studies students do their work experience, which is an "excellent" idea, only in the UK, or France. They should be sent to Italy, Spain, Greece and Lebanon - to countries that share Malta's ingredients and climate, so they can introduce new ideas to Maltese cuisine, using indigenous products.

Among the foundation's aims is the organisation of an annual talk by a foreign lecturer and Ms Taylor Simeti is the first to be brought over since the foundation, a non-profit-making organisation, was officially set up a year ago.

A Harvard graduate, she has written travel and food articles for various American and British publications and has been a regular contributor to the Sunday travel section of the New York Times and to its Sophisticated Traveller supplement.

Together with her husband, a Sicilian agricultural economist, she runs a family farm, where they produce wine, olive oil and organic produce.

Her lecture will be held at the Chamber of Commerce, in Valletta at 6 p.m. Entrance is free, but contributions would be appreciated.