Madrid dreading anniversary

Spaniards call it "our September 11".

On March 11, 2004, 10 bombs exploded on four Madrid commuter trains, killing 191 people, wounding 1,900 and setting off a chain of events that dragged the country through mourning, outrage, huge street protests, an election, a change of government and the withdrawal of its troops from Iraq.

"We're all still a little bit affected," said Enrique Sanchez, one of the first ambulance drivers to arrive at Santa Eugenia station, where one of the trains was hit. "It's way too soon to be reliving all this.

"At the time when we were treating all those injured people, we were crying. We couldn't believe what were seeing. I remember their faces, every one of them, but not their names because there was a deadly silence. The people had terror in their eyes."

The victims - the survivors, the injured and relatives of the dead - have told Spanish media they cannot bear to see the repeated video clips and still pictures of the trains that, as Mr Sanchez said that day, were ripped open "like a can of tuna".

The March 11 Victims Association, which shamed politicians for taking advantage of the most devastating tragedy in modern Spanish history, has asked officials to cancel plans to ring church bells at 7.37 on the morning of the 11th to mark the first explosion. The plan still stands.

"That date scares us," said Laura, who lost the use of her legs in the attacks and spent nine months in hospital.

"I ask you (in the media) to treat the day in the most dignified manner possible," she told a forum on international terrorism last month. Her last name was not revealed to protect her privacy.

Another victim said she didn't even want to think about the anniversary.

"For six months I couldn't even watch television. I didn't want to see the faces of the killers," she said, asking to remain anonymous because of the nature of her ordeal.

Islamist militants - mostly from Morocco and other North African countries - claimed the attacks in the name of al Qaeda, saying they were in revenge for Spain sending troops to Iraq and Afghanistan.

Seventy-four people have been arrested in the criminal investigation, and of those 24 remain in jail, 17 are under court supervision and 33 have been freed.

Gloria Estelle Jimenez, a Colombian factory worker supporting two children in her home country, was on a train when the first of two bombs went off during a stop at Atocha station.

"I never wanted to get off at Atocha again," said Ms Jimenez, who agreed to return there to talk.

The memories flooded back. Then came the tears. "I saw a man being blown onto the platform. We all started running, screaming and crying. When I was about to reach the stairs I saw a woman who had fallen to the floor. Everybody was stepping over her, even myself. When I was stepping over her I heard the second explosion.

"I was thinking right then, I don't want to die because I have to care for my children."

In the emotionally charged atmosphere, Spain still had a general election to think about, and it still was not clear who was behind the attacks.

The attacks took place on a Thursday and the vote was set for Sunday. Mounting evidence pointed to Islamist militants, but until midnight before the polls opened the government maintained the Basque separatist group ETA was the prime suspect.

It was then that a videotape was revealed in which jihadists claimed responsibility. The ruling conservative party, which had sent Spanish soldiers to Iraq, was swept from power by the Socialists who later withdrew them.

Within weeks the bombers attempted a second attack on a high-speed rail line and on April 3 seven of them blew themselves up in a suburban Madrid apartment, killing a special police agent as well.

Amid the grief and disbelief, Spaniards took inspiration and civic pride from the way paramedics, doctors, police, social workers and others on the front lines responded to the tragedy.

"We have become better people for it," said Mr Sanchez. "We have learned to love more, to treat people better. The whole thing overwhelmed us that day, but not anymore. Now we are prepared for something like this, and a whole lot more."

Factbox - Investigation into train bombings

What happened: Ten bombs hidden in sports bags exploded on four packed commuter trains between 7.37 and 7.40 a.m. One train was stopped at Madrid's main Atocha station. Another was due to have been at Atocha at the same time but was delayed and the bombs went off some 500 metres from the station. The other two trains were at different stations on the same line between Alcala de Henares and Madrid.

Who did it: Islamist militants, mostly of North African origin. The bombers issued a videotape claiming the attacks were revenge for Spain sending troops to Iraq and Afghanistan. A few Spanish-born suspects have been implicated in the theft of the dynamite used to make the bombs.

Victims: 191 people were killed. The toll is sometimes reported as 192, which counts either the unborn baby of a woman who was seven months pregnant or a police special agent who was killed on April 3 when seven prime suspects blew themselves up when surrounded by police. The number of injured varies from 1,500 to 2,100.

Big break in case: Two other bombs did not go off and were destroyed in controlled explosions. The 13th bomb was not discovered until hours later. It was defused and examined, providing the most important clues leading to arrests.

Arrests: 74 adults arrested. 22 remain in jail directly relating to the case. Two others remain in jail for separate offences. 17 suspects must report to authorities on a regular basis and have surrendered their passports. The other 33 have been released from custody. In addition, one minor, who is Spanish, pleaded guilty to helping transport the stolen dynamite and was sentenced to six years in a juvenile detention centre.

Suspects at large: Arrest warrants have been issued for Moroccan suspects Said Berraj, Abdelmajid Bouchar and Mohamed Afalah. Berraj "maintained a high profile within the al Qaeda network", according to court documents. Police believe Bouchar and Afalah fled Madrid on April 3.

Other names: Investigators are looking hard at suspects who have been charged in other cases with belonging to al Qaeda or the affiliated Moroccan Islamic Combatant Group, including Syrian-born Spaniard Mustafa Setmarian and Moroccan Amer el Azizi.

Police also have named other possible suspects including Salaheddine Benyaich, Saad Huseini and Karin el Mejatti, considered "high operatives of the Moroccan Islamic Combatant Group".

Witnesses under protection: 30, from several countries, including some who have changed their name and residence.

Case file: High Court Judge Juan del Olmo, the investigating magistrate leading the criminal probe, has generated 111 volumes of court files encompassing nearly 40,000 pages.

International cooperation: Sought from Italy, France, Algeria, Morocco and Belgium, mostly to interview witnesses and carry out DNA tests. Suspects have been arrested in Italy and Belgium.

DNA tests: 89 DNA identification tests have been conducted on all 74 people arrested plus 15 others not named.

Source: Spain's High Court, the special crimes tribunal specialising in cases of terrorism and corruption.