Promoting Maltese traditional foods

I am writing as a follow-up to the article (September 23) regarding the promotion of a local food culture by Fondazzjoni Fuklar. I agree wholeheartedly with the sentiment of the article and that the promotion of local traditional foods is sorely needed. However, while agro-tourism and culinary tourism are valuable niche markets to be targeted by the Maltese tourism industry, the promotion of local traditional foods should be a priority for various government entities in respect of the role of food in creating a sense of citizenship and national pride.

This is particularly crucial among young schoolchildren who, due to the globalisation of the food supply and food marketing, are sometimes more familiar with foreign food products than local ones. Just to mention one example, in my own research among Maltese seven- and eight-year-olds, a number of children failed to recognise Maltese traditional biskuttelli, thinking they were pieces of garlic bread. This unfortunately indicates a lack of regular exposure to the local traditional snack food item.

Luckily, many primary and secondary schools are getting involved in different Comenius projects which encourage cultural exchange among European students. Several of the projects conducted to date have involved the showcasing of Maltese traditional foods and dissemination of traditional recipes.

"Ftira Days" are also popular events on many school calendars; yet when "Breakfast Days" are organised these generally include packet cereals and juices, rather than, for example, a qaghqa tal-hmira and a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. A recent survey among Primary school teachers (Fenech, 2001), revealed that Maltese cuisine topics were scarcely mentioned during lessons. Moreover, out of 171 respondents, four mentioned that their school had organised a "Ftira Day" that scholastic year, whereas nine reported that their school had organised a "Hot-dog Day".

Within the subject of home economics, which is taught in a number of state and non-state schools and which is an area of specialisation in the B.Ed. (Hons) course, the promotion of Maltese traditional foods is a priority. Students are encouraged to conduct research about traditional foods, and to help in the recording via oral history techniques of traditional food processes and recipes. Students are also encouraged to practise preparing traditional foods and dishes in the home economics labs, modifying the recipes as necessary to conform with the national dietary guidelines.

Questions focusing on this theme and challenging students to suggest ideas for new food products utilising local foods and traditional dishes are also set as part of their home economics course-work, or even within national and Matsec examinations.

At tertiary level, B.Ed. (Hons) home economics students attend a study-unit on cultural aspects of nutrition where a good proportion of the time is spent exploring the socio-historical perspective of local foodways and making visits to sites where foods are still prepared using traditional techniques.

A recent B.Ed (Hons) dissertation (Vella, 2001) even developed a home economics teacher's manual where over 30 traditional recipes were compiled, modified to make them healthier, then tested and trialled in home economics labs.

Home Economists in Action (HEiA), which is the local association of home economics educators, would be very happy to collaborate on any project where the goal is to promote local and traditional foods not only among tourists, but also in our own schools and as part of our family meals.

HEiA may be contacted at suzanne.piscopo@um.edu.mt or c/o 61, College Street, Rabat RBT06.