The wine industry in Malta

Recent articles in the media have been expressing the personal views of a few individuals on the Maltese wine sector portraying personal ideologies and, unfortunately, their misconceptions. Such unfounded accusations and blatant misinformation can only do great harm, especially abroad, to the industry we are all trying to protect.

The Department of Agriculture feels that although all information pertaining to this sector has been made available to the public and to all stakeholders, it is necessary to put things straight once again.

The government has declared the wine sector as a strategic one for Malta's agricultural development and sustainability. This position has been asserted strongly both at home and on the international scene.

Such a commitment has been substantiated with the implementation of a new Wine Act which has entered into force on June 21, replacing the one of 1969. This new Wine Act is in line with international wine laws with special emphasis on the EU wine regulations. The latter are needed for the credibility of the Maltese wine sector, whether or not Malta joins the EU. Malta has also become a member of the International Organisation of the Vine and Wine (OIV) in order to be part of the international wine scene.

When one quotes EU legislation one has the responsibility towards the public of giving truthful and factual information. The definition of wine laid down in the EU regulations is "the product obtained exclusively from the total or partial alcoholic fermentation of fresh grapes, whether or not crushed, or of grape must (crushed grapes)". This definition does not make any reference, as some writers have erroneously claimed, to "the fermentation of which (grapes or must) takes place in the district of origin according to local tradition and practice".

In Malta one can broadly classify the wines produced as being derived either from locally grown or imported wine grapes. Malta currently grows only 30 per cent of the wine grapes needed to supply the thriving domestic wine market. The rest have to be imported.

This importation is being closely controlled by the Department of Agriculture which makes sure that the grapes and musts being imported are of high quality. It is unheard of that the Department of Agriculture or the Health authorities would allow the importation or the use of discarded grapes unfit for human consumption, an allegation that has been recently made in an effort to discredit wines in Malta.

The origin of these grapes is also monitored by the Department and high officials can testify that the grapes come from quality (DOC) regions in Italy. This means that local wine producers are incurring high costs for the grapes/musts and their refrigerated transport to Malta to ensure a quality product on the Maltese market.

Wine made from imported grapes does not preclude the wine from being of good quality. The issue is on the labelling of such wines where winemakers are in duty bound to inform the consumer of the real origin of the grapes used to produce that wine.

EU labelling regulations make it clear that wines made from imported grapes/musts have to carry on the label the words "Wine produced in [country of vinification] from grapes harvested in [country of origin]". Such regulations will be introduced in Maltese law by the end of this year but most local wineries have started complying with such a requirement beforehand.

In fact, a recent visit of some six members of the European Parliament Wine Intergroup have expressed their satisfaction with the wines being produced in Malta and their labelling in that the information being given on the labels does not mislead the consumer in any way.

With respect to the addition of sugar to must (known as chaptalisation or enrichment), acid and water, the Department of Agriculture categorically denies that there is the intention of any concessions which are against EU regulations. Addition of water is strictly forbidden as is the simultaneous chaptalisation and addition of natural grape acid to one and the same product. Furthermore, contrary to what has been stated in the media, the Viticulture and Oenology Unit categorically states that it has never received any request from local wine-makers to carry out such practices.

The temporary enrichment of musts from the local indigenous grapes will only be allowed for a transitional period of time so as not to lose the truly Maltese indigenous varieties. These varieties represent over 60 per cent of the Maltese vineyard and therefore have a strong socio-economic value. If wine from these local varieties had to be forbidden, viticulture in Malta would receive a deathblow which would signify the loss of a regular revenue to about a thousand farmers.

Nevertheless, such a temporary measure is being tied to the upgrading of all traditional vineyards so as to give these varieties the importance deserved and the introduction of modern vineyard management practices.

Jancis Robinson, an internationally acclaimed wine writer, describes acidification as "a common practice in warm regions and is often the only course open to a winemaker wanting to make a balanced wine from grapes which have been allowed a growing season long enough to develop flavour by reaching full physiological ripeness".

In hot climates like Malta acidification within limits and controlled by law is a universally accepted practice and does not lead to "engineered" or "industrial" wines as is claimed by certain people. The addition is rather a necessity to complement nature's shortcomings thereby enhancing the quality of the wine. Any respected oenologist would here question directly any winemaker who claims not to use natural grape acid to enhance his wines.

With the enactment of subsidiary legislation and the financial incentives, the Department of Agriculture is promoting the production of high quality wine grapes in Malta. This means that the large drain of money going abroad to purchase essential raw material (grapes and must) will instead generate a revenue for Maltese farmers.

The concept of "origin" becomes important when a wine has to be designated as a Quality Wine produced in a specific region (QWPSR). To encourage the production of quality wines produced from Malta grown grapes a system is being devised whereby only such wines, after rigorous testing procedures, can aspire for a designation of origin.

This designation will give the right to that wine to carry the name of a region or vineyard in the Maltese Islands. Steps are already being taken to start labelling such wines with a quality seal issued by the Department of Agriculture referred to as Denominazzjoni ta' Origni Kontrollata (DOK).

Let us, for once, stop denigrating local produce and give credit to all the positive steps that have been taken by the Department of Agriculture and the considerable investments that have been made by all stakeholders to put the local wine industry on a sound footing.

Mr Carbone is director-general of the Agricultural Services and Rural Development Division of the Department of Agriculture